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HOW TO GROW PETUNIAS

By Federica R.

INTRODUCTION:

Every single year of your life you have had so many things to think about, so little time for yourself.  Seasons are changing, a warm spring breeze enters your bedroom as you wake up one morning and you see Margaret, your neighbor, is already preparing her plants for blooming.  You roll your eyes and think about all the summers she spends bragging about how beautiful her garden is while all you can see outside your door is a naked, brownish field of loneliness.

Not that you ever thought about gardening yourself, actually you always wished to admire YOUR colorful flowers while eating a nice barbeque steak on a hot summer afternoon.  Well, this is your lucky day! No more clueless hours spent reading a meaningless fancy, expensive book.  If you are looking for a hardy, colorful flowering plant then petunias are great for you!

This guide will explain to you everything needed to start your petunias and help them become as beautiful as ever!  So prepare a little patience and a few bucks to start a great new hobby that will make Margaret wish she had never told you about flowers at all!

WHAT IS A PETUNIA?

    The word “Petun” means tobacco in South American Indian dialect, because indeed Petunias are relatives of tobaccos (Nicotiana).  “Their leaves have similar narcotic effect on humans, and both genera belong to the same family as potatoes. (Annuals & Perennials 659)

    Petunias are annual plants that color the garden from early summer to frost.  The main color of the flowers is white but it can be found in several shades of salmon, pink, red, magenta, lavender, purple, blue and yellow.

The flower shape ranges from single to double trumpet and petals may be picotees (bordered by a darker color) and fringe-edged and/or with throats of a contrasting color.  Petunia leaves are medium to dark green, smooth edged and pointy.  “Leaves are narrow and small, covered by fine fuzz and slightly sticky to the touch.” (New Jersey Gardener’s Guide 374)

            Petunias have no distinct scent although the New Jersey Gardener’s Guide says once upon a time these flowers had a nice scent.

    “There was a time when Petunias were planted for their fragrance as well as their beauty.  The single white types were supposed to be the sweetest.  In the main catalog listings, I checked, only one mentioned scent as a trait.  The variety was “The Pearl,” a mix of old-fashioned Multiflora Petunias with 2” flowers.  In Shepard’s Seed Catalog, it is described as having a soft sweet fragrance.” (375)

   Petunias are known all around the world (Annuals & Perennials 659).  They can be arranged in flowerbeds, baskets, window boxes and hanging planters.  “Petunias are effective cascading over walls or banks or when massed as bedding plants.” (Illustrated Encyclopedia of Garden Plants)

    Petunia hybrids (or common garden Petunias) are mostly divided into two groups, Grandiflora and Multiflora.  Grandiflora look best in hanging baskets in a sheltered location while Multiflora are best used in flowerbeds, annual borders and in containers.  Grandiflora have bigger and fewer flowers which are more susceptible to bad weather; Multiflora have several smaller flowers and are rain tolerant.

    Wyman’s Gardening Encyclopedia also identifies Dwarf, Mound, Bedding, Giant Ruffled and Multiflora Doubles as well.  (811)

    The table below states the differences according to Wymans. (811)

IT ALL STARTS FROM A SEED

    Although Petunias need assistance from seed to seedling, once they are planted in the soil they can bloom alone so be patient!  It is important to prepare the soil well because the seeds are every small and are easily lost or scattered.

1-     Carefully level the soil in the flat and spread finely pulverized soil on top.  Sow seeds on top and distribute as needed.  Do not cover the seeds, instead press down and top with a glass or piece of polyethylene film.

2-      Once seedlings have developed, it is time to plant them outdoors!  They prefer well-drained and fertile soil with a Ph of 6.0-7.5.  Space seedlings 7-10” apart and expose to the sun: they prosper where summers are hot. 

3-      The new plant should be pinched to develop a bushy and thorough growth and dead blooms should be removed to encourage further flowering.  “A good rule of thumb: Pinch back a third of the stems by two-thirds of their length about once a month.” (Annuals 45)

4-     Additional care should be applied to improve flower quality. “Fertilize once or twice during growth season and prune in midsummer to revitalize planting.” (375)

5-     To plant in containers, use soil-less or soil-based potting mix and apply a fertilizer high in potash every two weeks once the flowers begin to bloom.

6-     THE RESULTS:  Once in bloom, petunias color your once-lonely garden and can even attract hummingbirds and butterflies!

BEYOND THE BEAUTY: PESTS AND DISEASE

 Tobacco Mosaic Virus: The Petunia is highly susceptible to this disease that leaves mottled leaves and streaks of abnormal color varying from light to dark green and yellow. Leaves later grow distorted and the growth of the plant is stunted.  The disease is usually transmitted through aphids, although it can be carried from the infected plant through the hands of the gardener or the usage of unclean tools. (Encyclopedia of Garden Plants)

To fight the disease either remove and destroy the infected plant, spread beneficial predators to control the insects that carry viruses or spray organic pesticides.

Colorado Potato Beetle:  This is a serious garden pest that often attacks Petunias.  It is of oval shape, around 1/3” long with yellow and black striped wing covers.  This pest lays eggs in the spring that take about 1 week to hatch; the larvae (orange-red with black spots) feed and re-enter soil to emerge as adults in 1-2 weeks.

    During their quest to satisfy their hungers, adults and larvae impoverish the plant’s stem, reducing quality and quantity of flowers and leaves.  Heavy infestations are usually fatal, especially to young plants.  Colorado Potato Beetle infestation may be noticed by highly visible excrement that beetles leave on leaves and stems.

To eliminate this pest, “use thick organic mulch to inhibit migrating larvae” (Encyclopedia of Garden Plants) or handpick the beetles, larvae and eggs.  To remove the problem chemically, Neem, Pyrethrins and Rotenone can be used.

Petunias are also susceptible to slugs, whitefly and flea beetles (which leave holes in the leaves).

CONCLUSION:

    I hope you have a clear idea of how to start growing Petunias in your own garden.  Just in case I lost you somewhere back there, I’d like to remind you a few things before you sow those seeds!

    The Petunia is a flowering annual with different colors and shape flowers and smooth-edged oval leaves.  There are so many types and you can choose whichever kind you prefer to personalize your garden! 

    Remember to handle the seeds carefully because they are very small.  After leveling the soil and pressing down the seeds, cover up with a glass or plastic film and wait 7-21 days.  Once seedlings have grown, prepare a well-drained soil and plant them 7-10” apart.  Make sure you expose Petunias to a lot of light, preferably direct sun and that you repair them from the wind; remember to remove dead blooms periodically to encourage new flowering.  Grandiflora Petunias cannot stand bad weather as well as Multiflora so choose your flower accordingly.

    Make sure you watch out for a few diseases that Petunias are susceptible to, including the Tobacco Mosaic Virus, the Colorado Potato Beetle, whitefly, slugs and flea beetles.

            I forgot the most important thing:  Enjoy your beautiful flowers!

LITERATURE CITED:

-Ballister- Howells, Pegi. New Jersey Gardener’s Guide. Franklin, 1998

-Better Homes and Gardens. Complete Guide to Flower Gardening. Des Moines, IA; Better Homes and Gardens Books, 1995

-Botanica. Annuals & Perennials. San Diego, CA: Laurel Glen Publishing, 1999

-Eyewitness Garden Handbooks. Annuals & Biennials. New York, NJ: DK Publishing, 1997

-Ortho’s All About. Annuals. Des Moines, IA: Meredith Books, 1999

-Time Life Books. The Illustrated A to Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants. Alexandria, VA: Time Life Books, 2001

-Wyman, Donald. Wyman’s Gardening Encyclopedia. New York: Scribner, 1971